Travel Tales: Sunrise Over The African Bush

Given the current global financial climate – with everybodyworried about recession, cutbacks and redundancies – is even thinking about spendingmoney on a South African safari a sensible idea? Monica Guy shares some uniquememories of a once-in-a-lifetime holiday experience that definitely offers morebang for your buck – and is much more accessible than you might think!

A smooth-skinned zebra, a metre away, peers curiously at youwhile its baby gambols up to suckle. Behind, two young male giraffes arefighting, their long dappled necks twisting and tangling in an elegant dancefor dominance. Sunlight glints off the wings of a yellow-billed kite soaringinto the picture, its sharp eyes seeking out tiny movements among the roughblankets of green covering the dry earth. It’s 8am, you’re deep in the Hluhluwegame park, and it’s only day four of your South African safari tour.

South Africa is finally opening up its wild and wonderfulattractions to disabled tourists. Awareness is growing rapidly, bringinginvestment in more accessible facilities and a sea-change in attitudes. Bewarned, however; this is still new territory for everyone! Expect a few bumpyroads, some ad-hoc solutions and the occasional discomfort. Daily routines mayhave to be broken, but the rewards are truly magnificent.

KwaZulu-Natal is in some ways the real Africa, with its hot, humid weather and vast areas of unspoiltnature where wild animals roam. Colours, tastes, sounds and smells areunfamiliar and exciting: fever trees glimmering in sunlight, the strong, sweetflavours of African cuisine, the sound of hoopoes awakening you as the earlymorning sun rises over the African bush.

IN THE BUSH

Hluhluwe-Umfolozi (pronounced shloo-shloo-wee oom-fol-oh-zee) is the oldest and thesecond-largest game park in South Africa. The “Big Five” – lion, leopard,elephant, buffalo and rhino – wander freely through its 96,000 hectares ofsurprisingly lush vegetation.

At Hilltop Camp, you’ll stay in a comfortable chalet rightinside the grounds. Dave, a park ranger, arrives at 7am for an early morninggame drive in your accessible van – roads are relatively good, so there’s noneed for a 4×4. The rangers know the area inside out and can track animals downby following their droppings and footprints; within minutes you’re on the trailof an elephant who has eaten too many unripe amarula fruits.

It’s not long before you spot the pin-stripe suited zebras,munching calmly by the side of the track or strolling leisurely. They oftenband together with giraffes, whose towering necks and superb eyesight act as an early-warning lookoutsystem for lions and other predators. Unstressed and unhurried, the giraffespose for the camera, fluttering their impossibly long eyelashes and darting outa 30-cm tongue to catch the highest leaves. Nyala are more skittish, theirgraceful, white-striped bodies leaping away through the bushes at the firstsniff of danger.

Feel your pulse quicken as you drive down the dirt tracks,looking out for huge rubbery rhinos wallowing in mud pools, or old buffalospacing defiantly. If you’re lucky you’ll spot a lion or a leopard, slinkingaway up the hill in arrogant solitude. Hyenas, cheetahs, and wild dogs are alsofairly rare and exciting sightings which have everyone leaping for theircameras. Beautiful birds soar ahead, filling the air with unfamiliar cries; aswell as eagles, vultures and kites you’ll see lilac-breasted rollers,fork-tailed drongos and red-billed quellias – so keep your long lens handy!

BONAMANZI

After a day in the game park you’ll be hungry for dinner, sowhy not visit the restaurant where a superb African buffet awaits you and thechefs have a habit of breaking out into song.

A short drive down a dirt track from Hluhluwe is Bonamanzi,the second largest private game reserve in the area. Here you can sip cocktailson an accessible viewing point while watching the sun go down over the lake;there’s a crocodile farm here too. One of the treats is the night game drive,where – in the light of a powerful spotlight – you can seek out owls, ‘bushbabies’ and other nocturnal animals.

The accessible accommodation at Bonamanzi is still slightlymakeshift, but there’s an unforgettable thrill to waking up, pushing aside themosquito net you’ve been sleeping under, and peering through the window to findnyalas or warthogs munching grass outside your cabin.

AND THERE’S THE PEOPLE TOO!

KwaZulu-Natal is the ancient land of the Zulus,traditionally proud warriors and now one of the largest ethnic groups in SouthAfrica. Dumazulu Cultural Village offers a Zulu dancing show, an extravaganzaof stomping, kicking and sweating accompanied by boisterous whistle-blowing anddrum-beating. You can learn how the Zulus make their bright bead jewellery,cooking pots and trademark leather shields.

Another pleasurable option is the Midlands Meander, a routethat winds its way through rolling hills that are as green and lush as westWales. Along the way are artisans’ workshops selling handmade crafts and cosyrestaurants offering tasty homemade fare – all with magnificent views thrownin.

Staying in the game parks themselves is exciting, butthere’s no need to sleep ‘in the bush’ every night. Makaranga Lodge  is a luxury boutique hotel near the rollingValley of a Thousand Hills that is fully accessible for wheelchair users. Setin 30 acres of wheelchair-friendly gardens dotted with beautiful Shonasculptures, the hotel’s inclusive design was inspired by the owners’involvement with the MS Society. Be sure to book a massage in the spa or take adip in the accessible rock pool before treating yourself to a meal in theexcellent restaurant.

GETTING THERE

British Airways, South African Airlines and Virgin Atlantic flyfrom London Heathrow to Johannesburg or Cape Town, where you can take aconnecting flight to Durban. The journey takes around 16 hours in total.Specialised tour operators include Access2Africa Safaris (www.access2africasafaris.co.za),AccessAfrica Safaris (www.accessafricasafaris.com),Endeavour Safaris (www.endeavour-safaris.com),Epic Enabled (www.epic-enabled.com)and Flamingo Tours (www.flamingotours.co.za).

TRAVEL TIPS: SOUTH AFRICA

Safety: Crime rates are high, but in tourist areas youshouldn’t have problems. Keep valuables out of sight, avoid going out alone atnight and take copies of important documents.

Language: South Africa has eleven official languages, includingisiZulu, isiXhosa and Afrikaans. Everyone speaks some English as well as theirnative language.

Weather: KwaZulu-Natal’s weather is like a Turkish bath – hotand humid. Heavy rain falls even in summer. The best time to visit the regionis off-peak in May-July, when the weather is dry and mild and there are fewerinsects. Remember that the southern hemisphere’s summer occurs during the UK’swinter, around November to February.

Money: South Africa is still a good value destination for overseasvisitors. The currency is the rand, with current exchange rates around 14.5rand to the pound.

Electricity: Electrical current is 220V and plug sockets havethree thick round pins. If possible, buy an adaptor before you arrive.

USEFUL WEBSITES

Kwazulu-Natal Tourism Authority: www.kzn.org.za

QuadPara Association of South Africa: www.qasa.co.za

Kwazulu-Natal Wildlife: www.kznwildlife.com

Makaranga Lodge: www.makaranga.com

Scott Rains’ blog: www.rollingrains.com/travelogues

Monica Guy and Dr. ScottRains were hosted by the KwaZulu-Natal tourism authority  on a ten-day tour organised by Access 2Africa Safaris (www.access2africasafaris.co.za).