Travel Tales: Anne Goodman looks back on a family holiday in Switzerland
Britain has a great deal to offer but, having never had a family holiday overseas, I knew we were all missing out on something. Thanks to some money left by a distant uncle, I decided to invest in a foreign holiday that would be memorable for all of us – my husband, myself and our children Tom (17), Peter (15) and Rosie (13).
Peter has cerebral palsy; he has no problems with his speech, but no use of his left arm or his legs. As many of you will know just too well, when one of you is a wheelchair user, everything – transport, travel, accommodation, outings and even deciding how you’re going to spend your time – has to be looked into carefully. Plus, while Peter should feel he’s had a good time, his brother and sister need to feel the holiday isn’t centred around just his needs. It can be hard to juggle!
Having left it all rather late in the day, early ideas of going to Spain, Majorca, Greece or Cyprus were soon dropped as our requirements were either no longer available or too expensive. A complete rethink was called for – which is when Swiss Travel Service came up trumps! Opting for a five day/four night short break, all our arrangements – flights, hotels and rail passes, as well as our all-important questions about wheelchair accessibility – were sorted out within just four days! And the holiday proved to be particularly suitable for someone in a wheelchair.
HOLIDAY FUN
Flying into Zurich, everything went smoothly. Lifts took us down to catch our first train to Interlaken, where we spent our first two nights. Popular with visitors and locals alike, Interlaken (as the name suggests) sits between two large lakes and has a bustling, yet relaxed feel to it.
On our second day we took a trip up to the top of the famous Jungfrau mountains – it took most of the day to reach the top and back down again, but the views all around had us glued to the large and very large and clear windows of our spotlessly clean and spacious carriage. The trip really was picture postcard stuff; clear, steely-blue mountain rivers, beautiful blue/green lakes, spectacular waterfalls and beautiful small villages adorned with colourful window boxes of red geraniums – no sprawl, no ugliness.
The final 30 minutes takes you deep inside the mountain from where you rise to the summit, more than 11,000 feet above sea level! Unfortunately, on the day the spectacular views we’d read about were lost behind snow clouds and icy winds! Still, the discreet summit complex included a self service restaurant, a souvenir shop and the Palace of Ice – an incredible creation of walkways, tunnels and sculptures all carved out of mountain ice – which were all accessible to wheelchair users. Weather permitting, it is possible to take a short trip on the snows with husky dogs – something I’m sure would be a thrilling experience.
Our rail pass allowed us to make our leisurely descent on a slightly different route, allowing us to enjoy yet more stunning scenery.
The busy city of Lucerne was our next base. The day after we arrived, we took a two hour boat trip on Lake Lucerne round, stopping off at a couple of tiny villages on the edge of the lake to drop off and pick up passengers before reaching the base of Mount Pilatus. Europe’s steepest cog wheel railway then took us up to the two hotels at the top – and you have to admire the sheer logistics, hard work and organisation that must have gone into creating these buildings. This was one trip we had to book early on, to ensure that a particular gate would be open and that a carriage seat was removed to accommodate Peter’s wheelchair. From a height of more than 7,000 feet, the views over the lakes and the Alps were quite outstanding.
The descent was partly by cable car ride down to a level midway between Lucerne and the summit. From the top, the cable car looked like something out of ‘Where Eagles Dare’; we didn’t really believe that we were going to get on a cable car suspended so high above the ground. True to form, the Swiss staff just took us in their stride, keeping the cable car doors open for us long enough to get ourselves and Peter safely inside.
At the mid-way point, Tom and Rosie went on Switzerland’s longest summer toboggan run – an extra I’d definitely recommend. It was also possible here to try your skills on the biggest suspension rope park in central Switzerland – another enjoyable and challenging extra for both children and adults. Further down there was a fantastic children’s playground.
The final leg of our descent from Mount Pilatus brought us into the suburbs of Lucerne, from where we managed to get a bus (complete with dropdown ramps) back to the city centre. All in all, it had been another amazing day!
OVER SO SOON
And then it was back to Zurich to catch our flight back to London.
Although this was a specific ‘tour’, we were completely free to travel on any train in our area that we wished, making the whole holiday very flexible. There were no hidden extras – all the trips (except the extras mentioned above) were included in the overall cost – and the suggested day trips were unforgettable.
We travelled in August, when the weather was generally good – but not grilling hot! However, those parts of Switzerland would be spectacular at any time – be it spring when the meadows are carpeted with wonderful flowers, or the autumn colours of the trees.
With luck, there will be time in the future for a beach or pool holiday with plenty of sun, but I have to say that Switzerland made for a really different choice of holiday – and offers some of the most beautiful and spectacular rail journeys ever!
AND FINALLY…
We found standards everywhere were high. The Swiss were courteous, efficient and helpful. On main line routes, each train carriage has a reserved and generous space for wheelchair users, and an accessible toilet; even on smaller trains, there is still room for a wheelchair. Swiss railway staff are also happy to help, even lifting Peter in his wheelchair up into the carriages. It really felt like a different planet; it was as if this level of service was no extra hassle for them – something we much appreciated.
Above all, we were so pleased that, with the help of Swiss Travel Service, we were able to get a teenager in a wheelchair – and the rest of the family – to such incredible heights!
Rail travel is always special and with this holiday, it had been possible to enjoy an experience that I would wholeheartedly recommend if one of your family or party is a wheelchair user.
“Since both Switzerland’s national products, snow and chocolate, melt, the cuckoo clock was invented solely to give tourists something to remember it by.” Alan Coren.
Perhaps that’s a bit unfair given the memories that the Goodman’s have taken home with them…
On the trail of the Goodman’s – What to see in Switzerland:
Zurich: Often described as the cultural capital of Switzerland it is among the wealthiest cities in Europe. This is also reflected in the fact that it one of the most expensive too! Visitors shouldn’t miss the Kunsthaus Zurich – A gallery holding one of the biggest collections of classic modern art in the world including works by Munch, Picasso, Braque and Giacometti.
Lucerne: The city straddles the Reuss River. Look out for the most famous of its bridges, the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrucke). Built from wood in 1333 it has a span of 204 metres.
Mount Pilatus is home to the world’s steepest cogwheel railway. Local legend has it that it is named after Pontius Pilate who is supposedly buried there. If that’s too hard to swallow, other people that definitely made it to the summit include Queen Victoria and Vladimir Lenin.
What to eat in Switzerland:
Fondue: A large bowl of melted cheese provides the focal point for this communal eating ritual. All you need is a long fork and bread to dip.
Raclette: This is a shepherd’s dish named after the type of cheese used. Again it involves melting the cheese, a slither at a time and coating potatoes, meat and pickles with it. It’s a cross between a picnic and an indoor barbecue.
Rosti: Grated potatoes are fried on both sides and formed into a pancake.
Toblerone: Mr Theodor Tobler invented the iconic triangular chocolate bar in 1908. Tobler and Torrone (the Italian word for honey and almond nougat) has been enjoyed as ‘Toblerone’ ever since.
