Koblenz is a beautiful city in the west of Germany within reach of Cologne and Frankfurt and makes a superb destination as either stand-alone city break or a base for exploring the wider region.
Even though it is geographically the smaller cousin of the cities that surround it, (being the third largest city in the Rhineland-Palantine) Koblenz is a place of cultural and historic significance. It celebrated its 2,000th anniversary in 1992. The Rhine and Mosel rivers that lend their names to the famed wine regions meet at the city and indeed inspired the Roman naming of the settlement that traced through the Latin ‘confluentes’ becomes ‘confluence’ (of the rivers) and later became Koblenz.
Firstly, a stroll through the compact city centre. There’s something different here, something familiar but strange. It’s an ordinary if pretty, clean and pleasant place but what strikes me is a real self-assurance from disabled people. I see wheelchairs and children in leg callipers and blind people navigating the (largely) pedestrianised streets with ease. The attitude to disability here isn’t ignorant, ‘blind-eyed’ or shy as I’ve seen elsewhere but confident. It seems that with this has grown suitable adaptations with plenty of accessibility even in the smallest non-chain shops and cafes.
Away from the town centre the city offers some beautiful ‘getting away from it all’ spots. A promenade by the fast flowing Rhine is a must. From the town it’s just a passage through the grounds of the Palace of the Electors of Trier, once the site of Imperial glory and now a museum that often hosts horticultural exhibitions on it’s sweeping grounds. It also includes an accessible playground for youngsters with an enchanting garden to the rear which is all but a sensory installation given the fragrances of herbs in bloom and the accompanying bees that buzz in gentle appreciation.
The Rhine has a long history of being a major artery of German trade and industry and the rapidly moving water and the occasional barge still bear witness to its heritage. The riverside has now been reclaimed as a haven for people rather than the place where stock was loaded and exchanged. The city marks the north end of the Rhine Gorge world heritage site (as declared in 2002). The spirit of inclusion and practical adaptation is also gently incorporated. A Eurokey operated lift lowers wheelchair users right down to the waters edge (probably because angling is a popular local pastime) with the rest of the route level and wide with appropriate provision for parking.
There is a none-too-shy level of pride in Koblenz. Identity is an important thing here, indeed a monument to patriotic poet Max von Schenkendorf stands as a reminder of all the things that Germany was, and all the things she could become.
It’s well worth dropping into the Basilica of St Castor, especially on a hot day when the interior is cool and seems to match the mood of the peaceful pastel coloured palette of the simple murals that decorate the vaulted ceiling.
At the rear of the basilica, the peninsula narrows to a shape reminiscent of the bow of a battle ship. This is incongruous with history but fits into the massive scale of the 14-metre tall equestrian statue of William I of Germany. As if the ground level view wasn’t magnificent enough the cable car leading up to the Fortress Ehrenbreitstein gives a vista from 118 metres in the air.
Once again accessibility is built in as standard, with wide, level and politely slow access as the cable car gently glides through the station to collect her passengers. (Because the station is always manned, you can actually request that the car stops to give you time to board at your own speed.)
At the top of what is Germany’s longest cable tram there’s a tremendous view across the valley and access to the historic Fortress Ehrenbreitstein that has kept watch over the city for centuries. Again, with audio-guides, ramps and even a route for blind people to follow with their canes etched into the ground it’s another example of the care with which the city accepts disability.
Koblenz is well equipped to receive tourists with a range of disabilities but it’s the underlying universal design that allows disabled people to concentrate on ‘what they can do’. (That makes a change.)
More:
Hotel: Strolling distance from town and positioned next to the river with plenty of access. www.mercure.com/koblenz
Restaurant (and hotel): Diehl’s Hotel overlooks the confluence and has several accessible rooms. www.iehls-hotel.de
Koblenz tourist board: www.koblenz.de
